Having had the engine rebuilt several months ago I finally managed to get the thing started! I originally set the timing up with the pin 'slotted' into its slot on the front of the engine , adjusted the points using a bulb across the points but I noticed that the rotor arm pointed between No1 and No2 cylinders on the distributor. Of course the thing wouldn't start. I therefore moved the distributor anti clockwise until the rotor arm pointed to No 1 cylinder and success. Now that it runs how can I set the timing up properly? I am new to the sidevalve world and am used to nice timing marks so that I can use a strobe. All suggestions gratefully received. Tony
my advice is to start off with the pin-in-hole method...and take the car out for a few test runs......I aim to advance the dizzy until the engine starts to pink under load....then back it off a bit! Or, find a rolling road that does cheapo sessions, and do a bit of ignition swinging? my old Cannon's 10hp motor went to a local road, whose owner used to race the things back when.......so he played around with all sorts of tricks. nominal charge of around 짙30 for an hour (a VERY long hour, as it happened) are you running it on 12 volts?
ReplyDeleteyes I am on 12 volts - car seems to run ok so I guess its the suck and see method! Thanks for the response
ReplyDeleteI know nothing of ignition timing but according to 'The Ford Special Builders Manual' by GB Wade, one of Mr Haynes earlier publications it advises the following: To replace the distributor, first remove thecover containing the high tension leads, then set the rotor arm against No.1 electrode. Now move to the front of the engine and remove the timing pin, the reverse it and replace it in it's hole, and then turn the engine over slowly till the pin is felt to drop into it's hole in the camshaft sprocket. Now fit the distributer to the drive shaft, and the clamp plate to the cylinder head. taking care that the "0" position on the scale is is directly against the index mark on the cylinder head. If no boss is used, it is important that a 1/16" washer is placed between the cylinder head, and the distributer head. With the timing pin still in position, first turn the distributer body anticlockwise, and then clockwise, till the cotact breaker points are about to open. It is important to do this movement in a clockwise direction, otherwise there will be a backlash. the distributer body clamp can now be locked by tightening the bolt. By loosening the screw that secures the clamp plate to the cylinder head, the distributer may be moved fully anticlockwise, and the mark "4" on the scale must then be set against the index mark, and the screw fully tightened. Now remove the timing pin, reverse it , and screw it back into it's hole. the engine now should be properly timed. - phew! hope that means more to you than it does to me Steve Nikel
ReplyDeletenicely copied......the difference between the sidevalve Ford motor and most later commonplace engines,timing-wise, is that Ford effectively lock the crank for you in the chosen position, and place the 'timing marks' on the little sector plate attached to the distributor base. the ''4'' is the starting point, or static timing point. equates to setting one's crankshaft at 'whatever' degrees BTDC using the pointer and timing marks most other engines use. except the scale isn't on the crank, its at the distributor base! Once the starting point has been found (which seems to be what the OP has done) then the distributor can be gradually advanced (or otherwise) during road tests, to get the optimum timing point. this will vary from engine to engine, depending on far too many factors to list here. to advance the timing, take the cap off, rotate the engine manually to see which way the rotor arm revolves.......to 'retard' rotate distributor body in direction of rotation...to 'advance' timing, rotate in opposite direction.....the little scale plate allows one to move the distributor one degree(?) at a time......with most modern engines, moving the dizzy is really at bit hit n miss, unless a strobe is used. my 10hp sidevalver is using Nology Hotwire plug leads...... which have allowed a significantly different timing to be in place......I have no problem with utilising modern technology on old engines!!!!!!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteI suspect that when rebuilding the engine you have assembled the distributor drive dog assembly incorrectly, with the pin in the timing hole the drive dog should be at about 45degrees with its axis in line with the centre of no 2 cylinder with the large lobe to the front, ie like a forward facing \ .
ReplyDeleteDavid
I will check that out but the engine was rebuilt professionally by a builder who, I have been told, can be relied upon!
ReplyDelete