Wednesday 9 July 2003

Hydraulic? Handbrake

I am contemplating the fitting of a hydraulic handbrake to my newly converted Estelle. Do I simply split the front to rear brake line and introduce a cylinder of some type, with brake lever, or is it more complex? What type of brake cylinder is recommended and where from? Is there a ratio between the bottom pivot point of the brake lever and the attachment to the brake cylinder or am I over complicating the system? Does introducing this into the braking system cause problems with the overall braking efficiency and also cause the MOT man to have a fit? As you can see I am not quite ready to go ahead with the installation and any help would be of interest. Thanks in anticipation of advice from all you experts!! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

3 comments:

  1. I am not an expert but my class 8 Troll does have a hydraulic hand brake AND a mechanical one to satisfy the MOT man. So that answers one question, you will still need a mechanical brake to satisfy the MOT man. You can buy a suitable cylinder from Demon Tweeks and also all the other bits but at a great price. You need a Girling 0.625 inch diameter bore cylinder. Look at the picture in the D.T. catalogue then take it to a motor factor who will sell you a cylinder cheaply. You will also need another fluid reservoir for the handbrake. You connect this lot into the rear brake hydraulics. The pivot point for the cylinder is not too important and will depend upon how much handbrake movement you want from off to on. The Hydraulic brake will not have any ratchet action or possibility to be locked on, its just a leaver to pull to get a really good handbrake action on restarts etc. I am sure other more knowledgable 'gassers' will have other ideas. Any way good luck. Stuart Harrold  

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  2. Adrian Marfell and myself both use American "CNC" Staging Brakes, which come as a single complete unit, lever, cylinder, four bolt holes for fixing to any flat surface, footprint about 5inches by 2.    All you have to do is cut into the front to rear brake line, fit two unions, bolt it up, bleed the brakes and you are away.   I have not ordered one in for a while, but I can usually get them on about a couple of days turnaround, about £125 all in I would think.  Not cheap, but very easy to fit and will hold the car with far less lever movement than the girling cylinders.   And is all nice polish aluminium and chrome. Give me a call.............

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  3. if you fit a hydraulic cylinder to your rear brakes it might be wise to reineforce the bottom edge of the shoes as the ones on my skoda bent and let the piston out of the wheel cylinder causing a total loss of rear brakes ( foot & hand )

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