Dear All,
Without giving away all the cunning secret mods. that have made your particular Beetle what it is...could I please ask you to outline the common /sensible changes needed to classically trial my 1300 (AB series) engined 1969 1500 ? I have an idea of the basics but please assume that I know nothing ! I am particularly ignorant in the suspension dept. as all the literature I've seen concentrates on stiffening / lowering.
Any replies would be much appreciated.
Chris Cates
I
Here is the spec of my car for all to see......Vehicle: Volkswagen BeetleRegistration No: JAZ 1302Model: 1302Year: 1972Colour & code: Kasan Red L30BChassis No: 112 xxxxxxxxEngine code: ABApproximate Power output: 64 bhp at flywheel Measured Power output: 37 bhp at wheels @ 4684 rpm Measured Maximum torque: 52 lbft @ 2550 rpm Purpose: Competition vehicle specially built for Classic Reliabilty Trials. Complies with RAC Motor Sports Association general, technical and specific regulations for class 4 vehicles per M6.1.Description: Vehicle in "production" car class, so mainly standard.Suspension raised for additional ground clearance.ENGINE Built by: Stateside Tuning.Bore: Standard 77mm.Stroke: Standard 69mm.Capacity: Standard 1285cc.Crankcase: New OE Brazilian AS21 casting. Oil galleries drilled, tapped and plugged. Modified for full flow oil filter. Standard oil pressure relief valves.Crankshaft: New standard size German OE forging fully counterbalanced by Gene Berg (GB186). Balanced.Flywheel: New standard Type 2 215mm. Balanced. Gene Berg GB202F gland nut & washer. Not 8-dowelled. Not lightened. Silicone seal.Clutch: Standard Sachs 215mm.Front pulley: Gene Berg "Equalizer" GB404E. Balanced.Drive belt: OE Optibelt 11.2x912 AVX.Con-rods: Selected standard fully re-conditioned. Straightened, matched end-to-end and fully balanced.Bearings: Standard Kolbensmidt. Camshaft double thrust.Oil pump: High capacity.Oil filler/breather: Standard. Vented to atmosphere.Camshaft: Engle W-100. Bolt-on '0' Gear.Lifters: Gene Berg GB325.Push-rods: Gene Berg chrome-moly steel GB424.Push-rod tubes: Scat extended windage type.Cylinder heads: Standard OE 1300 twin-port castings with standard valves (35.6mm inlet with 8mm stem dia and 32.0mm exhaust with 8mm stem dia). Tapered valve guides. Compression ratio 8.2:1 (43.5cc). Gas-flowed by Jim Calvert.Valve gear: OE 1.25:1 rockers (from CB Performance) with Autocraft bolt-up shaft. Gene Berg swivel foot adjusting screws GB340(341). Geometry correctly set.Valve springs: Single HD Gene Berg GB271 with OE steel retainers and hardened collets.Pistons & rings: Standard German Kolbensmidt 77mm. Balanced.Ignition system: Bosch 009 distributor with Bosch TSZ-h (TCI) breakerless transistorized conversion kit (0 227 100 912) and MicroDYNAMICS RDS Visiscale SmoothCut over-rev limiter (set at 5600 rpm). Lucas 7mm copper- core leads with Beru metal shielded plug caps. Shielded distributor cap. Coil and control units located in passenger compartment on rear bulkhead.Sparking plugs: NGK BP5HS.Air cooling: Standard with heating system connection removed. Fan housing modifed to accept Type 4 oil cooler.Oil cooling: Type 4.Oil filter: Mann W712/39 (OE 030 115 561K) [Polo 16v]Exhaust: J-tubes. BAS header. Modified Scat tuck-up
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely amazing! as you say, now we all know! But what about the tyre pressures ? (including allowance for temp,barometric pressure,passenger weight,mud or rocky , really puts us motorcyclists to shame,my Triumph was purchased for 짙30 in 1972,E3134 inlet cam and that's about it, rear dampers fitted back then and they are still going. A new back tyre usually once a year but the one that did the 'Exeter' has now done four MCCs -lucky to get up Normans Hump and Tillerton I think.!
ReplyDeleteThe main thing to do to any Beetle as you head in the direction of Murray's "perfect answer" is to raise the suspension. In the sort term, just udjusting the inner end of the rear torsion bar by one spline will get the car up to a more reasonable height. In the longer term, conversion of the rear suspension to "double Joint" is to be recommended as this eliminates the dreadful looking positive camber. The front suspension can be raised by fitting the same ajusters that the custom car boys use to lower their vehicles, but with the settings set to allow the car to be raised.
ReplyDeleteThe standard 1300 is a be weazy, but if the breathing is improved a little by fitting a twin carb set-up then the peformance becomes tollerable.
Kadron H40's are the cheapest, but use a lot of fuel, Dell'orto or Weber 36's are the best, but v. expensive. If you can find them, a pair of twin solex's off a scrap type 3 (variant) is a good cheap solution.
Remember - Murray doesn't always win!!
Hi,Although a Beetle man I am not sure my record qualifies me to say "what" to do to the car (apart from raise it!). However, I can make a suggestion of a good source of reference as to "how" to do it.My constant source of reference is a book by an American guy called Jeff Hibbard called "Baja Bugs an Buggies - How to prepare VW-based cars for off-road fun and racing".It's ISBN is 0-89586-186-0I guess you could buy it off the web from those Yank fat cats overs at you know where.com or you could support some poverty stricken Brits called VW books on 019252 245 345I will duplicate these details on the book recommendations section.btw - I am sure even pro's like M&S will admit putting them rear spring plates back on ain't that easy.Anyone tried those adjustables or cranked thikgies from Red 9?Michael
ReplyDeleteRemember Murray very seldom wins!
ReplyDeleteRemember, Murray wins often enough......!! To add my bit however..... Simon suggests that in time a change to the "double jointed suspension" is advised. I would not necessarily agree with this. Although it is the norm for most of the Beetles now, including my own, I believe that the Torsion bar suspension is at least as good. I ran the original suspension for 3 years of competition and have only changed as the Beetle I bought recently, already had this set-up. As yet I am now however convinced. On flat surfaces I may agree as more of the tyre is being laid on the ground, but when climbing a section that has any sort of camber, as most do, whichever tyre is higher (and therefore more likely to spin), will become flatter on the surface it is driving on. At least that's my theory. For now I will continue on the "double jointed" simply because I think it's too early for me to say that it is better/worse, considering the cost and time of changing. If however your Beetle already has a torsion bar set-up, try it and see how you get on.
ReplyDeleteInteresting point from Giles on rear suspension. I was talking to Mike Hobbs from Stroud at the start of "The Clouds". He was saying he started by trialling a 1302 but changed to a torsion bar car because McPherson strut cars were too heavy.Then he decided to convert to a double jointed rear end to put more rubber on the road ( a big job!). However despite all this work he coudn't get on with a double joited reaer end and changed it back to swing axle.Now clearly Mike likes work but he did climb Crooked Mustard and win his class with a swing axle rear end!Michael
ReplyDeleteOk, Lets start to get complicated. I believe that for outright grip, a swing axle set up if much better that double joint. But you cannot get as much ground clearance with swing axles and double joint handles better - and by that I mean handles better on sections, not just the road. since most sections do involve bends as well, the double joint is a better compromise. Course if you could get a swing axle with good ground clearance then may be that would be the best, but the only way to achieve that would be by using a transporter reduction box axle - Now why didn't I think of that? Oh yes, that's whats on my Baja.
ReplyDeleteTrouble is, Simon seldom wins either!!!! (But I can blame the Dommett Dellow, whats your excuse?)